AUTHOR: Chris Puls
DATE: Tuesday, 4 July 2006, at 1:18 a.m.
In some areas/states it is illegal to have dogs in the back of the truck (as
it should be.)
Dog and Pet Travel Tips - Travelling Safely with your Dog or Pet
From: Dog Scouts of America
Travel Dog Badge Training and Preparation
The purpose of this training is to increase awareness of safety practices, increase responsible parenting practices and aid in accident and emergency prevention and preparedness. By taking a few simple steps prior to leaving home with your dog, you can greatly decrease the likelihood of having to deal with an emergency situation and will be able to increase your dog’s safety.
Note: The use of the term “parent” has been used to describe the dog’s handler, parent, caretaker, etc. because DSA defines parent as: A person who raises, nurtures, loves, provides for, teaches and protects a younger being so that he or she can become a welcome and productive member of society. This comprises all the tasks involved in raising a youngster to be an independent adult. Parenting begins even before the youngster is born or adopted, it is a part of the relationship within a family and it is something that lasts a lifetime.
Many people who share their lives with dogs have the same level of bond with their dogs as most people have with their human children. While we recognize that as far as the law is concerned, dogs are considered property, we feel the relationship is much greater than that of object and property parent. Being a responsible dog parent involves parenting.
Responsible dog parenting is something that needs to be taken seriously in this country. America- the land of the free, for some reason, places more restraints on canines than most European countries. In many "old world" countries, dogs are allowed everywhere in public. People take their dogs shopping with them, to church with them, and to the pub with them. What made America take on such a negative view of dogs that it started placing restrictions on where we could go and what we could do with our dogs? Could it be that some dog parents, because of their irresponsibility, have caused American merchants and government officials to take on a "better be safe than sorry," and "don't allow them a chance because of what they might do" kind of an attitude? That's a shame, because most of the dog parents I associate with are very responsible, and it's too bad that they have to be "limited" or punished for the past transgressions of others. If we want to turn around the attitudes about dogs in this country, we have to try to help all dog parents take responsibility for their dogs and become "model citizens." This is part of the goal of Dog Scouts of America.
Responsible Parenting:
This badge is also intended to increase awareness of why responsible parenting is so important. Whenever you and your dog are out of your home, you could be in the eye of the public. Your neighbors, friends, family and total strangers will watch how you interact with and care for your dog. If you maintain responsibility and kindness, those on-lookers are likely to say and think good things about you and your dog. If instead you fail to clean up after your dog, allow him to bark incessantly, allow him to run up to people that might be afraid of dogs or allow him to run loose where it is illegal, you can bet those same on-lookers will not think very highly of you or your dog. It is these irresponsible actions that cause dogs to be banned from parks and public places. It is also irresponsibility that has many hotels closing their doors to dog parents. Dog Scouts of America does not want to see that happen.
Your positive and responsible actions can help reverse the bans and negative attitudes of some members of the general public, allowing dogs to be welcome in more places. You should always set a good example of a responsible parent with a well-behaved dog. This will help other dog parents see the possibilities and help lead by example.
Here are some examples of responsible parenting:
Clean up after your dog (and other irresponsible parent’s dog’s waste.) This includes dog waste, vomit, loose hair and any dirt or debris your dog might bring in. If someone sees you with your dog and then sees dog waste, they will assume it came from your dog. That pile is an unpleasant message about dogs to everyone that passes it. Take a moment to clean it up.
Always carry clean up supplies with you for all types of dog accidents and messes.
If staying in a hotel, also have supplies for clean up of dog hair (such as a hand held vacuum or rotating brush type sweeper) and clean up of any wet accidents such as urine, vomit or diarrhea.
Always dispose of your dog’s waste properly (don’t put it into an indoor trash container or where the odor may offend anyone.)
Carry a sheet or blanket to put over the hotel bed(s) or floors to keep your dog’s hair contained.
Never leave your dog alone in a hotel room or allow him to bark repeatedly. Meals can be delivered to your room or you can take your dog to a drive through window to get your meal.
Be sure your dog moves through the hotel halls with you as quietly as possible or ask for a room with outside access. A rubber band around his tags can keep those quiet too.
Ask for a ground floor room in a hotel so that your dog’s paws thumping across the floor can disturb no one below the floor of your room.
Obey all leash laws and other rules. They apply to everyone regardless of how well mannered your dog may be.
Teach your dog proper manners and greeting behaviors (see Polite Pooch/Manners badge)
Learn to properly manage your dog and his surroundings to keep your dog safe and happy. Learn how to control all interactions between your dog and any people or other animals he meets.
Teach your dog to travel quietly.
Think of yourself and your dog as ambassadors for all other dogs to follow in your footsteps. Try to view your actions through the eyes of a person that does not like dogs (would they like or accept what you are doing?)
Identification:
The best way to recover a lost dog is having a means of identifying your dog and letting the person that finds him know how to get in touch with you. Your dog should always have some form of identification on him at all times. You have several options to choose from for this purpose.
Collar tags are well known, visible and easily recognized by everyone. The drawback is that they can come off of the collar or the entire collar may come off the dog. A tag that reads, “If I’m alone, I’m lost” and has a phone number is a good idea. Too often, someone will read a tag, see a local number, and assume the dog knows his way home. Multiple tags will give people multiple ways to locate you. The county license tag, the rabies tag, the dog insurance tag, the microchip tag, the tattoo tag, etc can all help people find you (and let them know you are a responsible parent.) However, if your dog is a therapy dog, it is suggested that the therapy tag only be on the dog for visits. If someone were to find your dog with a therapy dog tag on his collar, they will know it’s a great dog and may decide to keep him for himself or herself. It may have also been a factor in some of the thefts of dogs from yards and vehicles.
Tattoos are also popular and are always on the dog. They are inexpensive and most dogs do not have to be sedated during the tattoo process. To find a person to put a tattoo on your dog, check with your vet or with some of the tattoo registries. Tattoo-a-dog is one such registry that can put you in contact with a person near you. They also offer a registration service for your dogs and a 1-800 number that can be used by anyone that finds your dog. Using a registry is recommended because the registry tattoos are easier for vets and shelters to identify (usually a specific code). If you pick a random number, it may help you identify your dog, but won’t help a finder locate you. A caution about tattoos, you will need to keep the tattoo area shaved to keep the mark visible. It is also recommended that the tattoo be put on an area of the dog that cannot be easily removed, such as his belly or upper thigh. Unscrupulous dog-nappers have been known to cut off tattoos on a dog’s ear by removing the ear.
A third means of identification for your dog is micro chipping. This is relatively new and can be done by your vet without sedating the dog. A microchip is a small implant that carries information and is usually injected between the dog’s shoulder blades or at the base of his neck. Scanning the dog with a special receiver retrieves the information. Many shelters and vets offices have the scanners. The drawback of the microchip is that not every location has a scanner, some chips are not compatible with some scanners and because it is not a visible means of identification it could be missed if a ‘helpful stranger’ who thinks they found a stray takes in your dog. Good news is that while not all scanners can read all chips, they will recognize that a chip is present and let the person with the scanner know. The best means of identification for your dog is a combination of the above methods.
If your dog were to get lost, would he come to a stranger? If not, his chances of being recovered diminish significantly. Teach your dog that it is OK to approach a stranger and let them detain him. If you are afraid that teaching your dog this behavior will increase the chances of him going with a dognapper, keep in mind that it is much more likely for a stranger to use this to save your dog’s life than to steal him.
If you got into an accident on the highway and your dog got loose, wouldn’t you prefer that your dog could be called and detained than to have him run away (possibly into traffic)? Play the recall game with your dog. Have a few strangers stand in a circle around your dog (close at first, then gradually widen the circle.) Have each person call the dog and give him a reward. Avoid calling in a pattern, try to keep the dog guessing about who will call next. Then have each person hold the dog’s collar after they call him (briefly at first, then for longer), and then reward the collar hold. It may be helpful to practice this exercise without the dog’s name and using a cue a non-dog person might use. They probably won’t know the dog’s name and probably won’t give a “cue.” Have the strangers “follow” the dog and bend over and hold out their hands (the Wicked Witch pose that frightens some dogs), direct eye contact, clapping hands and have them grab at the collar. Acceptance of all these weird human behaviors get rewarded with things the dog sees as high value rewards. You want to teach him to welcome these behaviors, not fear them. Play this game saying things like “Here puppy, puppy, puppy” or “Come here” (said sweetly, not as a cue. ) Once the dog is responding and allowing the collar hold, hide the rewards in another location and when the dog is called, have the person lead the dog by the collar to the reward. Then try it when you are not visible (this can significantly change the dog’s response!) Practice with you in another room, or in the house while the dog is in the yard. Once you are comfortable that the dog WILL come to a stranger, practice in an unsecured area, but attach a long line to the dog just in case. To get the badge, you will leave the dog in the car and go out of sight (preferably somewhere the dog can’t see or get to you.) A helper will get the dog out of the car (they can use treats or the dog’s name if needed to get the dog out.) Once the dog is loose, a stranger will try to capture the dog without using treats, the dog’s name or obedience cues. Using “come here” is allowed, as it is likely to be used by someone not familiar with dogs. The person trying to capture the dog should not use calming signals or anything that a person with dog knowledge would know or do. The dog should come to the stranger and allow him or her to take the collar or the dog should stay still and let the stranger approach. Standing still looking at the door where the parent is does not count.
Secure Travel:
More and more states are making it the LAW to secure your dog during travel to prevent accidents caused by dog distractions. Anyone that has been in a car with a dog that is barking or jumping around knows how distracting and annoying it can be. It is not safe for the dog or the people in the vehicle (or the other people on the road that could be hit while the driver is distracted.) Dogs should be secured when they travel to protect them in the event of a crash.
Heavy-duty crates attached as close to the center of the vehicle as possible are a good idea. Avoid putting your crates in the back of the vehicle since this is the area most likely to get crushed if the vehicle is rear-ended and sadly many dogs have died this way. In a van, if there is nothing between the crate and the back of the seats, the crate can become a deadly flying object in the event of a front impact. Crates should be secured to the vehicle to keep them from flying around in the event of a roll over accident or hard impact. All other items, heavier than a box of tissues, also need to be secured. Hard-sided crates such as those approved for use on airlines and made of plastic are the safest. Soft crates should be used only as a last resort because they offer no ‘crush’ protection, are nearly impossible to secure to the vehicle and in the case of an accident, the dog will break through the mesh on impact. Try to position crate doors so they face the back or side of the vehicle. In a front impact, if the dog hits the door of the crate, it will pop open (the pins that secure the door can’t withstand the force.) Wire crates will likely bend and may pop the welds if not secured against the back of a seat (allowing the seat back to take most of the force in a front collision.)
A recommended option is a crash rated dog seat belt. There are several seatbelts on the market, but few are rated for impact. Most are only to secure the dog and keep him from jumping around. In the case of a crash, the buckles or stitching on these types of harnesses can break, leaving your dog unsecured and possibly causing injury. The straps should be wide enough to offer support without cutting into the dog during an impact. If your dog can reach the armrest, be sure to engage the “child safety locks” on the windows! You don’t want your dog rolling down the windows himself and possibly trying to jump out! J If your dog is a Houdini and will back out of the harness, a crate is the safest option.
Trailer tie and crate setup (Strap goes through the crate to hold it in place too) Wire crates are not recommended, but in this case, it is the back of the seat and not the wire of the crate that will take the force in a front end collision. In a side or rear collision, an airline crate will hold up better.
Snap close up- The plastic snaps of the harness are only to hold it on the dog, they do not take any of the force from an impact. The heavy duty O rings and the triple stitched nylon webbing take all the force - along with whatever is used to attach the dog's seatbelt to the vehicle
If you choose to use a seatbelt harness for your dog, you will need to be sure he won’t back out of it and can’t get tangled in the attachment lines. The biggest complaint about the harnesses that attach to the vehicle’s seatbelt is that the dog tends to get tangled when he turns around. One way to avoid this is to get an equine trailer tie (the shorter option) or cross tie (longer option) and attach it to a solid piece of the vehicle (like around the back of a bucket seat - see above - or snapped to where the seat is attached to the vehicle.) The trailer tie may be ‘overkill’ for a toy breed, but should be considered for any dog over 20 lbs. Trailer ties and cross ties come with “Panic Snaps” (seen above and below). These are also sold separately and can be attached to the tie using a Quick Link. A panic snap with a swivel end is recommended to help prevent tangling.
In a 30mph collision, the occupants exert 20 times their body weight on any restraint system. This means that the harness and tie (or crate) for a 20-pound dog has to be able to hold 400 pounds of sudden force! Think you can hold that on your lap? A 40-pound dog at the same speed exerts more than 800 lbs of sudden force! Does your dog’s seatbelt look like it can hold that? What about the side of your crate? At higher speeds or with a heavier dog, even more force is applied to the restraints. Consider that when you are selecting the restraint system for your dog. All the components have to be able to withstand a huge sudden force. In place of the panic snaps shown above, you can use a carabineer made for rock climbing. Be sure you get one that is meant for climbing, not one from the hardware store! If your dog likes to turn around in the seat a lot, you might still need to add a swivel to the carabinner. Unrestrained cargo is subject to the same forces in an accident. In one case, a loose bag of dog food killed a woman when it flew forward and hit the back of her head. If your dog’s crate is not attached to the vehicle, it could fly too!
If your dog is not restrained, he is a missile that is likely to go through the windshield or hit the dashboard (or the back of your head) with tremendous force. You should also be able to get your dog out of the car quickly in case of a fire or other hazard. The quick release snaps on the equine trailer ties are great for this! If a door of your vehicle was jammed, could you still get the dog out? Be sure that if you use a crate, you don’t limit the dog’s exit to only one door. It is recommended that you keep the dog’s leash on when he’s in harness. You could even put the handle end over your armrest. In the event that you are pinned in the car, you can still reach your dog’s leash.
Never seatbelt or crate your dog in the front seat (or any seat that has an airbag in front of it) unless the airbag can be turned off. Just as with a small child, an airbag can seriously hurt or kill a dog.
The other reason for restraining your dog is to minimize distractions. You should be keeping your eyes on the road while you drive, not on your dog that is getting into your luggage or jumping from seat to seat. By restraining your dog, you don’t have to worry about what he is doing or getting into. This allows you to be a safer driver and less likely to get into a collision. Even if your dog sleeps quietly in the vehicle, in the event of an impact, he will get airborne and hit whatever is in front of him with tremendous force. In most collisions, windows break and a dog could get frightened enough by the collision to bolt out of a window (if he hasn’t already been thrown through it.)
Your dog should learn to ride quietly. Sudden or incessant barking is a distraction and annoyance. If you are aggravated by your dog’s actions or barking, you are more likely to exhibit road rage that can be deadly. Covering your dog’s crate can keep him from barking at every thing you pass.
With the help of a friend to drive, you can work on teaching your dog that riding quietly is more rewarding that barking his fool head off. Start out of the car by teaching your dog the “speak” cue, then of course the “quiet” cue. Teach ‘speak’ by saying it just before any action that will cause the dog to bark (like a knock at the door) and reward him for barking. Then as the dog settles and is likely to comply say ‘quiet’- reward the quiet. Once you have the “quiet” cue learned, you can get in the car. When the dog barks at something, say quiet and put a treat or favorite toy right in front of his nose and use it to get him to look away from the ‘trigger’ so that he takes his attention from it then give him the reward. You could also practice this solo by parking near an area that causes the dog’s triggers to go past the stationary window. If the dog barks at people going by, park near a sidewalk where people frequently walk. If it is other dogs that set him off, try to park on a street where people walk their dogs (summer evenings parked at a curb in most suburban neighborhoods will work.) The key is giving the quiet cue, then distracting the dog from the trigger, getting a few moments of quiet and attention from the dog and then rewarding. You may have to start with the trigger barely visible (far away) before you can progress to keeping the dog’s attention when the trigger is passing right by the window. Don’t skimp on the rewards during this training, use whatever your dog really, really loves!
Another option is to teach the dog that it is lying down quietly that gets the rewards. Use the same methods as above, but reward the dog for lying down.
Emergency Preparedness:
Even with plenty of precautions, accidents still happen. Being prepared will help you cope with an emergency and handle it, instead of falling apart or not being able to help at all. You should always carry a first aid kit in your vehicle and keep some first aid supplies with your dog’s ‘travel gear’. Having the supplies won’t do you any good, however, if you have not learned how to use them. The Red Cross offers courses in Dog First Aid and the requirements for the Dog Scout First Aid badge will also help.
The following are items that should always be carried in your first aid kit: Vet Wrap or other type of bandaging material, gauze or other sterile and absorbent material for bleeding, muzzle, hydrogen peroxide or other means for wound cleaning, 2 or more paint stir sticks or other items to make a splint suitable for your size dog, a blanket that can be used as a sling to carry an injured dog or to keep warm a dog that is in shock, an extra collar and leash (a slip lead can fit any size dog), and Benedryl or other antihistamine in doses your dog can handle. The liquid form is most easily dosed for small dogs. Be sure the Antihistamine is the only ingredient in the allergy relief product (acetaminophen is deadly to dogs.) Of course many more items could be added, but the above items will get you through most traumas well enough to transport the dog to a vet for care.
Another consideration is informing others about the care of your dog in case you are unconscious or so severely incapacitated that you cannot communicate your wishes. If you were to die in an auto accident with your dog in the car, would the emergency personnel know whom to contact? What if you live alone and were to leave dogs behind at your residence? Would anyone know?
This information should be in your vehicle at all times (in a place emergency personnel will find it). It can be placed in an envelope marked “FOR EMERGENCY PERSONEL” or “IN CASE OF EMERGENCY” a white or bright colored envelope is best. You could even put reflective tape on it. A sticker attached to the driver’s side door (inside and not on the glass, which could break) can tell emergency personnel where to look for your information. The driver’s door is the best place for the sticker because it’s the only door that emergency personnel will see for sure! If your door is jammed, they will be coming in through the passenger door and will still be able to see the sticker. To see if your sticker is in a good location, imagine that your airbags have deployed- will the loose bag cover the sticker? Also try climbing into your vehicle on your hands and knees- this is how the emergency personnel are likely to enter if you have to be extricated. They won't be looking up to the visor or behind your seat. When placing your folder in the car, choose a location that will be accessible in most accidents and where the folder is not likely to fly out in an impact. Use permanent marker to write in your info in case the pages have to be read in the rain. You don't want the ink to be running all over the page!
Homemade emergency sticker on my driver’s door
Emergency info folder- created from half of a standard folder.
Inside, I added clear pockets to show which dogs are with me (if any). I have indiviual photos of each of my dogs that fit in these pockets as well as a group shot in case all 5 of them are with me. This folder also contains my emergency info and who to contact if I am injured.
In the emergency papers, put the most important facts first. You can include more detailed info that can be given to whom ever will be caring for your dog(s) till the person you designate arrives, but keep the critical info as easy to read and locate as possible. The example pages on the DSA website for the travel dog badge are just suggestions. You can use them as they are or adjust them to suit your needs and preferences. Regarding the driver/passenger page, some people do not want to keep that much personal info in their car. On the lines with personal info, you could write: “in my purse” (which you wouldn’t leave in your car) or “ask my emergency contact.” Adding your photo to the emergency info page is a good idea if you often have human passengers. Emergency personnel can then see easily to whom the info belongs (without having to read the age, sex, etc.)
You should also include several color copies of photos of your dog (taken from the front and sides) that have the dog’s info and your contact information on the back. If your dog gets lost while you are away from home, you can hand out these photos to people in the area. Emergency personnel could also use the photos if your dog escapes from an auto accident. You don’t want to wait till you are out of the hospital or your contact person arrives before a search for your dog is started. The clear pockets I created on my folder allow emergency personnel to see which of my dogs should be in the car and allows me to carry the info for all my dogs all the time. I do my best to remember that when I put the dogs in the van, I need to put their picture in the pockets (and reverse the process when I get back home.) By doing so, no one is going to be looking for dogs that were never in the van in the first place and if a dog I had with me gets loose, they will know which dog to try to find.
Special considerations:
If your dog has ‘issues’ you may want to display them on his crate or tape a note near where the dog rides. Things like “Shy Dog” or “Dog Will Bite” or “Special Diet” or “Dog Needs Meds” or “Deaf Dog” can help people that may need to help your dog. You can explain the issues in more detail on the emergency info page so that if your dog has to be in the care of a stranger, they will better understand his needs.
General Travel Tips -
Create a “Call Police” sign. It can be printed as large as possible on 8.5 x 11 paper and slipped into a page protector or laminated. You could also create the words out of reflective tape on a separate sheet in case it’s dark. If you break down, put it in the window that is most visible to approaching traffic. Use this even if you have your own cell phone because you could be in an area without cell service. Sadly, there are predators that prey on stranded motorists and if they think every passing car has been calling the police, they are less likely to stop and target you. If a police car does come by, ask them to sit behind your car until your help arrives. If it’s really hot or cold, you can sit in the police car till help arrives. If you don’t have cell service, they can help you contact some help. The presence of the police is a huge deterrent to crime!
Always carry a cell phone and the numbers of people you can call in an emergency (including people along your route if possible). Also remember to pack the phone charger so you have a phone on the way home and can use the phone at your destination without worrying about running out of battery power. Keep your phone fully charged. A two-way radio can be a back up for a cell phone. Enough people travel with them that you are likely to reach someone by calling for help. Keep extra batteries on hand too.
When traveling, water may taste differently to your dog and cause him to not want to drink. Some bottled water or several jugs of your home water can help encourage your dog to drink and prevent dehydration. If your dog can’t reach a water bowl during travel, it’s a good idea to offer water to your dog each time you make a rest stop.
If you have purchased medical insurance for your dog, having them wear the ID tag can let a vet know that treatment is authorized (or allow them to call the insurance company to check.) Just a little extra piece of mind if your dog is injured and you are not able to accompany him to the vet.
Do not let your dog ride with his head out the window. Getting hit with a bug at 65 MPH is not comfortable and could cause serious eye or ear damage. We’ve all heard the sound of a rock hitting the windshield; now imagine it hitting your dogs face! There is also a possibility that he will step on the window button and choke himself by closing the window. Tree branches and road signs could also hit your dog in the face if they are close to the road or you have to swerve. In the event of an accident, serious injury or death is likely if the dog’s head is outside the vehicle. If he can get his head out, he can probably get his whole body out- not a good thing at any speed and a major driver distraction!
If possible, find the location of the vet that is closet to your destination. An Internet search and on-line map can help you with this. This can save many precious minutes in case of an emergency in an unfamiliar location. Keep the phone number of your own vet handy in case the local vet needs records faxed or medical conditions/medications verified.
I have heard from several people that dogs are not allowed in tow trucks. Keep this in mind if you need to call a tow truck. I don’t know if they will allow the dog to remain inside the vehicle being towed (I know people can’t ride in there.) You might have to call someone to pick up you and the dog or try finding a taxi that will allow the dog(s). Some police officers will allow dogs in their cars if you sweet talk them and sound desperate J
You might want to practice having other people, even strangers, tell your dog to “wait” or “stay” in the car so they don’t jump out an open door or window as soon as the crate is opened or a door is opened. In the event that you are unconscious or worse, a stranger may have to get your dog out of the vehicle and you don’t want them to bolt before a leash is in hand or clipped on.
All items in a vehicle that weigh more than a box of tissues should be tightly secured. Anything that is loose WILL fly toward the point of impact and have a second collision with whatever gets in the way (human heads, window glass, dogs, whatever.) If you have a trunk on your vehicle, be sure to put the heaviest items in there.
Travel to some destinations has special requirements and considerations.
Going to the Beach – If you don’t live near a beach and you decide you want to take your dog for a visit, be sure that you check in advance to see if dogs are allowed on the beach. Also keep in mind that salt water in large amounts can cause vomiting and explosive diarrhea. Be sure to wash your dog off with fresh water so that the salt does not cause skin irritations. Burned paw pads from hot sand is another hazard as are washed up jellyfish and fishing hooks. Be sure to bring shade for your dog if you plan to be at the beach for a while and fresh water should always be available. Swimming is a very exhausting activity and the force of the water movement makes it even harder. Don’t let your dog over exert and using a life jacket designed to fit your dog is a good idea. If no one is swimming in the area, find out why. There could be a rip tide or other hazardous condition. Supervise your swimming dog closely so he doesn’t try to “fetch” a jellyfish or become shark food.
Arid locations or travel during warm weather – The southwest is beautiful but poses some unique hazards. Because of the high temperatures, heat stroke is more likely. Be sure your dog stays cool and drinks plenty of fluid (keep lots of water in your car in case you break down and have to wait by the side of the road!) Scorpions and snakes are more commonly encountered too. Decide if a snakebite kit should be included in your first aid kit. Grass burrs thrive in warmer climates so tweezers are a good idea. If you are in the desert region, keep in mind that the nights can get very cold with as much as a 70 degree difference in temperatures between night and midday. If you need to leave your dog in the car for brief periods of time (such as during your potty break), getting a “Remote Starter” on your vehicle can save you a lot of worry. It allows you to start the engine (including the A/C or Heater) without a key in the ignition. The engine will run for 12-15 minutes before automatically turning off. If the brake pedal is pressed while the remote start is activated, the engine shuts off (to prevent theft of the vehicle.) In most states, it is illegal to leave your car engine running with a key in the ignition (because of the high theft potential.) The remote start lets you do this legally. Any time you leave your windows down or car running; you run the risk of theft (of the dog, the car or both!)
Be aware of hot pavement in parking lots and on paved walking trails, especially black top. If you can’t hold your hand on the pavement for 15 seconds, it’s too hot for your dog. Do not allow your dog to do sustained activities (running, swimming, etc.) if the temperature is over 75 degrees or the humidity is high. Do not let your dog swim or drink from any water source that has a lot of algae or where the water looks cloudy or like pea soup. These conditions could indicate a deadly algae outbreak and there is no cure once the dog or human is exposed. If alligators are a possibility, do not let your dog swim in or drink from ponds. Be prepared- before temps start to rise, be familiar with the signs of heat stroke as well as how to treat it. If the dog could get hot or over heated (either traveling, or exercising at your destination) keep damp absorbers in your cooler with ice (Absorber towels are available in the DSA store.) You can lay one under the dog as well as over his back to cool him down. A freezer pack (made for coolers) wrapped in a towel can also be put under the dog to cool him. If the dog is close to heat stroke, do not cool him off too fast. Use cool water, not cold, to bring him back to a regular temperature without causing shock. When the temp starts to come back down, stop the cooling and let the body continue what you started, otherwise, you might drop the temp too much.
Cold locations or travel during cold weather – If you will be traveling to a destination where freezing temperatures are possible be sure to put extra blankets in your car. You don’t want to freeze if you have car trouble and don’t get assistance right away. “Hot Pockets” type hand warmers can prevent frostbite. You may want to use a higher calorie food if your dog is not used to the cold or will be more active than usual. If your dog will be walking on snow and ice, consider booties to protect the pads on his feet. Check them often for cuts or snow pack if boots are not worn. Your dog might appreciate a warm coat too.
Out of the country – Many European destinations welcome dogs and have much more open policies about dogs in public places. If you plan to travel abroad with your dog, be sure to research the laws, regulations and customs of the areas you will be visiting. Travel agents and Internet searches for “overseas dog travel” may be able to provide you with contact information for your specific questions. Be sure to plan well in advance, so that you can get the required documents, shots and in some cases micro chipping. If you plan to go on any guided tours or out to meals, where will your dog stay? You won’t be leaving him in a hotel room alone right?
By airplane – Dogs can travel by air, but rules and regulations vary by airline. Well in advance of traveling by air with your dog, be sure to contact the airlines to get a copy of their rules, policies and procedures for dogs. Some dogs are small enough to travel in the cabin, but most airlines don’t allow more than one dog per flight in the cabin. If your dog is traveling as cargo, be sure you get a non-stop flight during a time of day when it won’t be excessively hot or cold while the plane is on the ground. Be sure your dog’s crate is well marked with emergency contact info and that your dog is wearing plenty of identification. Painting the crate a bright color or using colored duct tape on the outside will allow you to easily identify your crate as its being loaded onto the plane. This helped at least one person spot their crate being off loaded at the wrong destination and helped avert a disaster! Filling the crate with shredded paper and letting the dog create a “nest” can help comfort the dog. Getting an “anti-vibration” mat for the bottom of the crate can help as well. Using drugs to calm the dog is not recommended because it interferes with the dog’s ability to regulate its temperature. Homeopathic solutions like Rescue Remedy do not have these side effects.
At hotels - In addition to the suggestions at the beginning of this packet, here are a few more tips: At the time of this writing, all Red Roof Inns allow dogs. Getting their free directory can help in an emergency if you have to locate a room. Be aware that some hotels that do allow dogs have weight restrictions or a restriction on the number of dogs allowed. Keep your dog’s water bowl in the bathroom where spills won’t affect carpeting. When you check-in, be sure to ask what areas should be used to walk your dog. Never allow them to eliminate on landscaping like flowerbeds and shrubs. You should also ask if the grass has been sprayed recently so that you don’t walk your dog in chemicals he might lick off his feet. Bring your own towels in case you need to rinse off your dog (like if they find ‘Eau de dead animal’ and decide to roll) and never leave ANY dog hair in the hotel tub/bathroom! If it’s warm enough, the hotel might have an outside hose you could use instead of the tub. Bringing a little bottle of doggie shampoo might help.
Visiting friends and family - If you are visiting others with your dog, be sure to verify in advance that your dog is welcome. Let your hosts know anything that they might not realize (sheds, has a coffee table clearing tail, barks, chases cats, not good with kids, etc.) Determine ahead of time what areas of the house or yard are off limits to the dog. Teaching your dog the “magic line” can work wonders. Teach your dog not to cross over a leash or rope laid on the floor the same way you can teach him to “wait” at a doorway (see the manners badge.) This will allow you to restrict areas easily while the dog is supervised without a bunch of baby gates (rope is easier to transport too!) Teaching your dog to “go to his mat” or lay quietly in a crate can make meal times pleasant. If the host has neighbors with dogs, see if you can have them be told in advance of your visit and find out if they have any special arrangements they would like you to follow with your dog. Example: "Please do not walk your dog on our side of the street, mine becomes overly territorial." or “We have an invisible fence, please don’t let your dog cross it” You may end up getting some doggie play dates arranged that way too!
In checking people out for the Travel Dog badge, I have heard some GREAT suggestions for additions to the Preparation and Training page for the badge – thank you to everyone that provided this information! The following pages cover those excellent tips and advice.
GENERAL TIPS:
Several states have made it a law that dogs be contained when inside a moving vehicle. These laws are in effect even if you are just traveling through. Stay legal and safe- contain your dog in a crate or seatbelt!
Keep in mind that if your dog gets loose after an accident, they might be severely traumatized and in a “blind panic”. They might not even be willing to come to you (provided you are in a condition that allows you to try to get them.) It is so much easier to be prepared and contain your dog, than to have to hope someone is able to catch your dog as it runs around on the highway while you are loaded into an ambulance.
You might want to consider teaching your dog to allow a stranger to reach in to the vehicle and hook a leash on his collar (if you don’t keep one on while traveling.) If you're in a serious auto accident, you may be incapacitated and have to rely on a stranger to reach in and give the "wait" cue and also to unhook your dog from the seatbelt. Then the dog needs to allow the stranger to get them out of the car. This may or may not be easier after a traumatic accident.
Teach your dog to be comfortable wearing a muzzle. Many vets will muzzle any injured dog and if the muzzling traumatizes your dog, it adds to his stress.
Be sure the dog's tags have the phone numbers of where you will be or a cell phone number or the number of a special service such as a tattoo or microchip registry. If you aren’t home, you will miss the call from someone that finds your dog.
Use a tag which reads, "If I'm alone, I am lost." and gives your cell phone number. Too many people assume a dog wandering on his own is supposed to be doing so. I don't know how many people I've seen, dog a wandering dog, read his tags, notice one gives a nearby location and then release the dog assuming he knows how to find his way back home.
Be sure to take care of any dogs you are leaving behind; Proper care info regarding how much and when to feed, the vet's number and location. Contact your vet to let them know you authorize any emergency treatment that is needed (this pre-planning can eliminate delays in trying to reach you for approval), and give the dog sitter emergency numbers regarding where to reach you.
Be aware that front seat airbags can kill a dog. Some vehicles have a safety feature in which the passenger airbag will not deploy unless there is more than 40 pounds in the front passenger seat. If your vehicle does not have this feature and it has a front airbag, be sure your dogs stay in the back seats.
Don't let your dog ride in the back of any pick up truck. A cap will not contain the dog and if the cap is displaced in an accident, it can seriously injure or kill the dog.
Do not let your dog ride in a car with its head out the window. Debris thrown up from the tires of the vehicle in front of you can cause serious injury. If a rock can break a windshield, imagine what it can do to your dog's eye or the skin on its head. Anyone that has ridden a motorcycle without a helmet can attest to the fact that even small bugs at 55 mph HURT!
Don't let your dog drink from or swim in water sources in areas where alligators could be present.
Be aware of what kind of conditions you are putting your dog into when they go in the water, particularly at the beach; Ecola overgrowth, rip tides, dangerous underwater objects, deep mud/quick sand conditions, slippery or loose rocks, etc. Also watch them carefully for exhaustion, which can happen quickly if swimming against a current or waves. There are some innocent looking forms of algae that can kill a dog in minutes if ingested so be very careful of where your dog is drinking.
Don't leave a dog in a hot car regardless of how quick you plan to be back. You have no way to know if something unexpected will delay you. A "remote start" on the car will allow you to leave the car running for 12 minutes without any risk of getting the car stolen (no key in the ignition and an automatic "engine kill" if the brake pedal is depressed while system is activated.) This device also keeps the running car legal, since in many areas, leaving a car running (with a key in the ignition) is illegal (even if warming it up or cooling it down.) If you park where you can see the car out a window (like at a restaurant) you can use the remote to keep starting your car while you eat- thus keeping it cool or warm. If you have $1000 to spend, you can get a temperature sensor for your car that will page you if the interior of a running car gets above a selected temperature. Be aware that an idle engine is not always enough to keep the air conditioner from freezing up. Once the compressor freezes, it blows hot air! Several police K9’s have been “cooked” to death because of this.
Teach your dog an emergency recall with a whistle. This can come in handy if your dog accidentally gets loose. It can prevent you from having to chase a dog around the highway or yell for your dog in an unfamiliar neighborhood or hotel parking lot. It also allows more people to help you call your dog because the whistle can sound the same regardless of who is blowing it. The information about how to train this is on the DSA website.
AIR TRAVEL:
Fill the dog's crate with shredded newspaper and let them create a nest under it. Of course, introduce them to this concept BEFORE you need to put them on a plane.
Put a photo of the dog on the outside of the crate. Clear adhesive shipping pockets work well for this.
Tape a slip lead to the crate with the words "for emergency use only".
An anti-vibration mat can help the dog relax a bit more since it will help absorb some of the major vibrations present during air travel.
Don't tranquilize the dog; it inhibits the dog's ability to regulate his own temperature. Rescue remedy should be OK to use.
STAYING AT A HOTEL:
At hotels, ASK where the dog is allowed to relieve himself and if the grass has been treated recently. Never let your dog eat grass in public locations or from other people’s lawns.
Should be obvious, but only take "house trained" dogs to hotels and watch all dogs closely at first in case they try to "mark" the room. Always take clean up supplies with you regardless of how good your dog has been in the past. The supplies can come in handy if your dog gets sick too.
Tip the housekeeper at the hotel since it's likely they have a bit of extra work any time a dog has been in a room even if you clean up well.
IF STAYING WITH FRIENDS:
Discuss in advance anything your hosts may not realize about your dog (sheds, has coffee table clearing tail, isn’t comfortable with kids, eats cats, etc.) and confirm the dog is still welcome. Better to be prepared than have you and your dog “banned” after you get there or to have an unhappy host.
Determine ahead of time what areas of the house/property are on and off limits to your dog. Teach your dog the "magic line" as in "don't cross this magic line!" since there may be no way to block off an off-limits room. This cue can come in handy in many places! Simply lay a leash or rope on the floor and teach the dog he gets rewarded for staying on one side of it. Only use this while supervised though.
If the host has neighbors with dogs see if you can have them told in advance of your visit and find out if they have any special arrangements they would like you to follow with your dog. Example: "Please do not let your dog cross our invisible fence, our dog becomes overly territorial." You may end up getting some doggie play dates arranged that way too! If your dog tends to bark, be considerate of neighbors that might not be tolerant. Letting them know when you are leaving may help them be more accepting. Always keep your dog on lead or under strict verbal control when outside the house or fenced yard.
Before turning your dog loose in an unfamiliar fenced yard, especially if your host does not have dogs, take a walk around to check for fence openings, poisons and other dangers or escape possibilities.
If you have a sweet dog that people seem to fear due to his looks, letting the neighbors know your dog is well trained and friendly can help ease their potential fears.
TRAVEL SUPPLIES:
Use a checklist for packing so you know you haven’t forgotten anything you need. Toys, kongs (shown in the photo filled with peanut butter) and chewies to keep the dog occupied during ‘down time’ may come in handy. You can also make a mush of your dogs food, pack it in the kong and then freeze it to give your dog a long lasting meal.
Coyote enjoys his Kong!
Keep a window breaking and seatbelt cutting tool within reach of the driver. If there is a fire or you crash into a water source while in your vehicle, you will want to be able to get out as fast as possible.
Coyote loves a peanut butter filled kong!
Keep a "Call Police" sign in the vehicle- the words can be created out of reflective tape on card stock and slipped into a page protector or laminated (Can save you from having to sit on the side of the road for long periods of time if you don't have a cell phone or are in an area where no cell coverage is available) This sign also helps protect you from predators that might prey on you because they don't know if the police will show up any minute.
Keep the "hot hands" type products handy if you are traveling when it could be very cold if you break down. These are designed to be held or some can be slipped inside your socks. Battery powered socks could be nice too.
A clothesline is good to have if you get caught in the rain and have wet leashes and towels that need to be dried out.
Put wet towels or absorbers in Baggies and put them in your cooler. If the dog gets hot, let him lay on one while you drape the other over his back. You could also use the non-freezing packs made for ice chests if you wrap them in a towel (you don't want to freezer burn your dog!)
Always travel with towels, towels, and towels. Nobody (hotel or host) wants you using his or her towels to wipe down your dog. Beach towels can be used as a safe place to sit if you need to wait at the side of the road. Bright colored hand towels work well as flags. Beach and bath towels make good shade or blankets. Beach towels can be used to lift an injured dog. Beach towels are also great for when you don't want to sit on a wet car seat or if you or your dogs are wet.
Bring a bottle of dog shampoo in case of emergency and pack two extra days of the dog’s food and daily meds, just in case.
Prior to leaving, check the local phone listings for the nearest vets and, if possible, print out a locator map off map quest or the like and put it where you will remember while panicked. Be sure you have your vet's phone AND fax number and e-mail if they have one.
Keep the 1-888-426-4435 number for animal poison control handy. If you need it, you’ll likely need it QUICK! If you need to call, you have to enter your credit card number before they even talk to you!
With risk of tornadoes, fires, floods, chemical spills due to train or truck wrecks or chemical plant explosions, hurricanes, etc. everyone is at risk of having to evacuate their home in an emergency. Create a “Grab n’ Go” kit that has dog food, meds, spare leashes, emergency info, some chew toys, etc. that you can toss in (or keep in) your car. If you are forced to leave your home quickly, you will be prepared.
DO YOU HAVE MORE TIPS AND SUGGESTIONS TO ADD? I WANT TO HEAR THEM!
This information may have already saved a dog's life when it was involved in an auto accident on the way home from camp 1 in 2005 – no doubt it saved him from injury! Sharing this info can help save even more and could save you from the heartbreak of losing your dog.
If you got into an accident on the highway and your dog got loose, wouldn’t you prefer that your dog could be called and detained than to have him run away (possibly into traffic)? Play the recall game with your dog. Have a few strangers stand in a circle around your dog (close at first, then gradually widen the circle.) Have each person call the dog and give him a reward. Avoid calling in a pattern, try to keep the dog guessing about who will call next. Then have each person hold the dog’s collar after they call him (briefly at first, then for longer), and then reward the collar hold. It may be helpful to practice this exercise without the dog’s name and using a cue a non-dog person might use. They probably won’t know the dog’s name and probably won’t give a “cue.” Have the strangers “follow” the dog and bend over and hold out their hands (the Wicked Witch pose that frightens some dogs), direct eye contact, clapping hands and have them grab at the collar. Acceptance of all these weird human behaviors get rewarded with things the dog sees as high value rewards. You want to teach him to welcome these behaviors, not fear them. Play this game saying things like “Here puppy, puppy, puppy” or “Come here” (said sweetly, not as a cue. ) Once the dog is responding and allowing the collar hold, hide the rewards in another location and when the dog is called, have the person lead the dog by the collar to the reward. Then try it when you are not visible (this can significantly change the dog’s response!) Practice with you in another room, or in the house while the dog is in the yard. Once you are comfortable that the dog WILL come to a stranger, practice in an unsecured area, but attach a long line to the dog just in case. To get the badge, you will leave the dog in the car and go out of sight (preferably somewhere the dog can’t see or get to you.) A helper will get the dog out of the car (they can use treats or the dog’s name if needed to get the dog out.) Once the dog is loose, a stranger will try to capture the dog without using treats, the dog’s name or obedience cues. Using “come here” is allowed, as it is likely to be used by someone not familiar with dogs. The person trying to capture the dog should not use calming signals or anything that a person with dog knowledge would know or do. The dog should come to the stranger and allow him or her to take the collar or the dog should stay still and let the stranger approach. Standing still looking at the door where the parent is does not count.
